How to draft a boot

Tip: If you don’t want the zipper pull dangling out in the middle of your leg, remove the pull tab (with a wire cutter) and use a paper clip instead.

Shoemaking School Pt. 9 — Boot Patterns

You’re getting a three for one special here. How to do a derby boot pattern, a bellows tongue technique, and how to make sidezip or Chelsea style boot patterns.

Derby boot patterns are are very similar to derby shoes, so you can reference Pt. 7 of this series if there is any confusion. I’m going to skip some steps because they can be found in that guide as well.

First part is to tape off the last. Make your markings on the last similar to the derby pattern, draw a line across through the widest point of the shoe (shifted up 5mm). Mark the center of that line, that will be where your facing seam is located. You could theoretically draw all of this out later in the pattern base, but I like to do it on the last because its easier to get a feel for how the final product will look. Also make sure to mark your heel height, B, its used to determine how to shape the shaft at the back. Rule of thumb for this, size 42 is 6 cm, +1mm for each size up, if it ends on a half size, round up

Next, peel the tape off, and transfer it to a piece of paper. Notice I made a small relief cut to help flatten the tape. Cut around the tape for now.

This is where things get interesting, below is the reference material I am going off of. I don’t actually use this measurement chart by the way, just giving here for additional resources. I also don’t have any boot lasts (the second page) so I will only explain how to make a boot pattern with a shoe last. This stuff took me quite a bit of trial and error to decipher, but once you get the hang of it it’s not too bad.

Fold your paper over so that the point hits the midpoint of the last. Notice the notches, I add those so it’s easier to transfer to paper later on. Mark where the paper folds (at the front of the last).

At this stage, I also cut out along the lines I added earlier, again, so it will be easier to transfer all of this on to the actual pattern base. This whole exercise was to find the K point. As with the derby pattern, I don’t actually know why some of this stuff is the way it is, but it works!

Here is the reference I use to make the pattern base of the boot last.

Now transfer that to another piece of paper, and you’re ready to go on a pattern base. Mark the C.P. point 5mm below point B. Take a 90 degree ruler and line it up along the widest point of the last, and C.P. Also draw a line from the base of the heel through K.

This is where you get to choose the height of your boot. Whatever you pick, extend the vertical line to that height. Draw a perpendicular line across the boot. Mark along that horizontal line how wide you want the boots. I noticed around 12–13 cm is a good width for sizes 10–11 US, the first pair of boots I made, it was almost 14 cm and way too wide for my calves.

Make a vertical line 1.3 cm up from your width point, move .5mm in from the vertical line you drew for the back of the boot and connect it to the 1.3cm line, that’s going to be the topline for your boots.

Extend the K line about 3 mm, and connect your topline down to the facing of the shoe. You can determine how wide open your facing is at this stage, I like to keep mine fairly tight, maybe about 1 cm open. If you want it wider, lower that facing line away from the edge of the last outline.

At this stage, add the lasting allowance (2.3–2.5 cm), a bit of space to account for the heel counter (2–3 mm), and make sure you’re accounting for the slight asymmetry of the last by making the inner facing slightly higher than the outer one. If you want to do any stitch marks, or heel counter or anything like that, you can add it to the pattern here.

I added a heel counter some lacing holes, and marked where my lining is going to be. At this stage, if you want a normal tongue, just extend the C line and add a tongue (reference the Derby pattern guide for more details).

Here is the complete pattern base. I make my cuts straight along the lines, and wavy around it, so that I can tell which side to trace along. I also go ahead and punch out the eyelets with the exact size they’re going to end up being. That way I can measure it all out exactly and not eyeball it later, which leads to misaligned eyelets.

At this stage, its the same story as the derby boots. Draw a center line, flip the pattern base along the center to get your pattern.

One thing to note, you have to have two separate pieces for the lining. To account for the curve along the heel. My first pattern I tried to do it the same way as I do shoes, where you just flip it along the centerline and make it one piece. I ended up with a lot of bunched up leather along the back. Make sure you add your 5mm extra along the top, its easier to line it up that way and you can trim it off later. I also take quite a bit in on the heel, otherwise you’ll have a lot of excess material back there. Don’t worry about it being too narrow, lining leather should be stretchy, it will work out.

I have a slightly funky heel counter here. If you go with anything that’s not completely straight, Flip it along the center line, making sure you keep the width and general shape of it.

And here are the completed pattern pieces for reference. Notice how I have a slight outline inside, along the heel counter. I ended up sketching about 2mm extra room for the entire thing, because I’ll add pinking to it. Also, for the underlay along the captoe, I used 11mm instead of 9mm, because I’ll add some brogueing to the cap toe.

Don’t forget to put your little V cut to mark which is the inner side.

Now for the bellows tongue. You’re essentially making a W, with the width of it being however wide you made your facing. Measure the vamp to confirm.

Next stage. I’m kinda making it up as I go along here, this is only the second bellows tongue I’ve ever done.

And here it is. I made it on paper first instead of the poster board I use for my patterns

And here’s why, so I can test it out! It lines up all right, however I’ve determined that the length is a bit short by comparing it to my pattern pieces.

I added the slits in, and this is how it’s going to connect on the actual uppers. The cut piece will go under the vamps, and be sandwiched by the lining.

Here’s the full pattern, with the tongue extended by 1.5cm.

Now for a side zip version. Do all the steps outlined above to make your pattern base. By the way, that first stage where you transfer the tape to the piece of paper and fold it over to find K? Well, if you save that, you don’t ever really have to do that again. You can make all your boot patterns for this last off of that. In fact, you can just reuse the old pattern base, transfer the outline to a piece of paper, and adjust whatever you want afterwards. So, pretend you did that here, but now you want to turn it into a side zip, or a Chelsea boot.

Boom, now you have a side zip boot. Super easy, mark out where you want your zipper, and how you want your panels to lay out. I have a one piece vamp here, that I will have to crimp later. Making a Chelsea boot would use the same exact technique, but you’d add a space for the elastic instead of the zipper.

Here are the outer quarters, and the heel counter. I ended up reusing the upper pattern to make the lining. I’ll just make it slightly smaller whenever I connect the lining pieces together.

Here are the inner pieces with the zipper. This is actually the second pair of boots I’m making with this pattern, I decided to make a much more narrow zipper opening on this one, hence the discrepancy between the pattern and the cut out upper.

And here is the vamp pattern, along with two examples of crimp boards. I made the wooden crimp board to account for the curve of this pattern. Although, I made the prior pair of boots on the top crimp board. At first I thought the throat of the shoe was a little bit tight, which is why I made the second crimp board. However, they’ve stretched out and are perfect now so maybe I didn’t need it.

Here the pattern I made for the vamps before they are crimped. I sort of eyeballed this, then added more space just in case. Good thing, because I barely had enough length crosswise to get it on the cinching bolt on the crimp board.

Here are the uppers, crimped. Basics of crimping, soak the leather for a while, center it on the board, and basically last it. The cinching bolt (laying on top of the pliers) helps pull it in diagonally.

Once it’s dried and has taken on the shape, take them off, and cut out the vamps. I had to re-dye the vamps, since some of the dye leached out while they were soaking before being crimped. Its a horsebutt from Maryam, with part of the shell cordovan in the vamps.

And some finished shots of the original pair of side zips I made..

And after a few weeks of pretty heavy wear. The beauty of this leather is that you can apply some conditioner, most of the scuffs will disappear, or you can leave it for a more worn look. It also burnishes really well for some great patina action, you can see some starting to develop along the front. Its a heavily waxed nubuck Kudu from CF Stead, a tannery in the UK. Its one of my favorite leathers of all time, besides the patina potential, its quite thick and dense, but still maintains its softness and flexibility.

Originally posted on my website, arnoshoes.com

To see my current projects, give my Instagram page a follow

What you need

• base shoe or boot
• (stretch) fabric
• matching yarn
• pattern paper or silk paper
• OR tape and plastic wrap
• fabric and paper scissors
• pencil or marker, fabric chalk
• glue (leather glue, foam glue or contact cement)
• optional: invisible zipper, silicone-backed elastic band, acrylic paint

Pick your base shoe: the shape of the heel and toe box should match your reference. The color doesn’t matter, and neither does the length of the shaft! You can create stunning thigh-high boots from low-cut pumps or ankle boots.

A smooth surface is always a plus. If your base shoe has decorative elements like buckles or studs, you will need to remove them with scissors or a seam ripper before you continue.

You can use any fabric to make a shoe cover. However, stretch fabrics are more forgiving and easier to fit around your base shoe and your leg. In this tutorial, I am using stretch vinyl. It looks sleek, does not fray and is stain-resistant.

Cotton or poly stretch fabric, pleather and heavyweight spandex also make good boot covers. I’ll show you some more examples from my wardrobe at the end!

To estimate how much fabric you need, measure the desired height of your boot from the top edge to the sole (at the toe box for high heels!), and add a few cm / inches of seam allowance. This is your minimum yardage of fabric that you need to buy. If your fabric is narrower than 140cm or 55″, double the yardage. And don’t forget about potential straps, bucket or embellishments! If in doubt, I draft the pattern first to find out how much fabric I need.

There are two different ways to create a pattern that will fit over your base shoe, as well as your leg.

Draft the pattern

Tracing Method

Take either one of your base shoes, a pen and a scrap of pattern paper or silk paper. The paper must be thin and somewhat transparent so you can see and feel the seams and edges through the paper. Press the paper against the shoe and trace the outline of the shoe, as well as the seams. You can pin the paper to the shoe to hold it in place while you draw.

Boots usually have at least a center front seam and a center back seam to fit the curve of the foot and leg. If your boot has a toe box that’s cut and molded in one piece, I recommend drawing in a center front seamline anyway. Use a chalk pen or pencil to draw it on the base boot before you trace the pattern.

Side seams may be necessary to add a zipper, to add decorative seams or embellishments like stripes, or to fit the shaft to your leg (especially when you want it to flare out at the top). You’ll figure this out in the next step.

Next, add the boot shaft. Measure the width of your calf and thigh (for thigh-high boots) and the desired length of the shaft, and sketch the basic shape of the shaft on pattern paper. If you have a pattern for leggings or a bodysuit, use that as a base. Just add more seam allowance if your boot cover fabric isn’t stretchy. Tape or glue the shaft piece to the shoe pattern piece, and you’ve got your basic pattern!

Here’s what a typical boot cover pattern looks like. (Thanks to Artflower Cosplay for tracing this for me!) The line on my paper pattern is where the base shoe ends and the boot shaft begins. As you can see, I added center front and back seams, as well as side seams. The zipper will be added to the inner leg seam where it’s least visible. The outer leg seam is optional: the seamline is straight, so you could just tape the pattern pieces together if there’s no seam in your reference.

Tape Method

If you have trouble drafting the pattern free-hand, use the duct-tape method that’s popular with armor makers. Put on the base shoe, wrap your leg with plastic wrap (cling wrap), then cover it with duct tape or masking tape. Be careful not to wrap it too tight, so you don’t cut off your blood or make the shaft too small to fit comfortably.

Draw in the seamlines (center front, center back and at least one side seam) with a marker, then carefully cut open the tape dummy. It’s best to have someone help you with this method.

Cut the tape dummy apart at the seams and flatten the pieces with your hands. Trace them on paper to get a reusable pattern.

Cut the fabric

Cut each piece x2 – mirrored, of course, for the left and right boot.

Add at least 1–1.5cm (3/8″– 5/8″) seam allowance on all seams. I usually add more for thigh-high boots so that I have enough material to adjust the fit, especially if my fabric doesn’t stretch.

How much allowance you add at the top depends on how you want to finish it. You can fold over the fabric edge and stitch a wide hem, for example. I’ll show you a few alternatives at the end.

I do not add an allowance on the bottom where the fabric will be flush with the sole. The raw edge will be glued onto the base shoe.

If you would prefer to make a detachable boot cover instead, do add a small seam allowance (1cm / 3/8″) at the bottom.

46 Responses to “How to Make a Boot or Shoe Jack”

1. Robert Goodwill June 1st, 2023 How do I get project plans Reply
   • Customer Service June 2nd, 2023 Hello Robert, Thank you for contacting us. All of the information needed is provided within the article. You can click on the image of the template to get the printable version. If you have any other questions, please chat, email, or call Customer Service. Sincerely, Sarah
     Wood Workers Guild of America Video Membership Reply
2. Ray March 2nd, 2023 The leather in the jaws is an excellent idea. I’ve got one that I bought years ago in Texas, and have used it hundreds of times, and get compliments every time I use it in public (especially at the Barcelona Spain airport). The boot heel doesn’t have to go all the way in (to work). Mine has approximately the same size jaw opening, and I wear a size 15. Thanks for the ideas. Reply
3. Eugenio December 24th, 2021 Thanks for the tremendous design. Reply
4. DAVID November 22nd, 2021 Thank you for posting these plans and especially for making the templates downloadable, too!! Reply
5. maha168.com July 9th, 2021 This paragraph provides clear idea for the new viewers of blogging, that
   truly how to do blogging and site-building. Reply
6. Ellery Mathews August 22nd, 2020 no comment at this time Reply
7. larry July 29th, 2020 Great plans.Been thinking of making one.After seeing your plans will do. Thanks, Reply
8. Mica Meigs Murray February 17th, 2020 can i have the planes for making a boot jack frome you pleas Reply
   • Customer Service February 18th, 2020 Hey Mica! Steps listed within the article, but they aren’t available to download as a plan–apologies! Happy Woodworking!
     Madeline
     Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership Reply
9. DEACON TOM December 16th, 2019 Hmm, I made the boot jack to the template and the dimensions and it is WAY too small to fit an adult boot. I’m going to try to enlarge the opening for the boot by sanding, but am a little discouraged. Any advice ? Reply
   • Customer Service December 18th, 2019 Hello. Sorry that it didn’t work for you. I’d suggest making a copy, scaling up the size of the template. Cut out and check the size using the paper template before making the next one in wood.
     Thanks
     Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership Reply
10. Dan Copeland November 11th, 2019 been making these for years now & a winter variant I’ve been planning is to make a double-wide version. eliminates the old “wet sock” issue 😉 will let you know here how it goes! Reply
    • Pete March 22nd, 2022 Just curious as to whether or not you made the double-wide. I hate the wet sock! Thanks in advance. Reply
11. Jean Robert December 17th, 2018 Being as i have essential tremors i find it difficult to copy the plan from pc therefore i was wondering if i could purchase the plan.I’m prepared to pay for it ,thank you & Happy Holidays Reply
    • Customer Service December 18th, 2018 Hello Jean, I am sorry to hear that. The plan can be printed as well! Reply
12. Horace January 26th, 2018 Didn’t have hardwood. Used 5/4 X 6 decking and made it a bit wider due to the softness of the pine.
    and it works great! Thanks for the excellent plans. horace Reply
13. Hector January 23rd, 2018 is anybody knows the boot jack dimensions for kids, women and men Reply
    • Enrique January 29th, 2018 That one works fine for whole family Reply
14. Tom Casey January 15th, 2018 Great jack. I added a soft leather topping to the U to protect my wife’s fancy boot heels. Reply
15. Charlie December 5th, 2017 Made one this evening. Works fine for my size 11 boots. Thanks! Reply
16. Darlene December 1st, 2017 I’m making this as gifts for my whole family .it’s easy and cheap I’m a 71 yr old senior lady and loves woodworking. I live on a small pension but my niebours give.me wood ; they are in their 80s so I fix alot of things for them Reply
17. Amy August 24th, 2017 For those that have attached leather to yours, what glue did you use? Reply
    • Customer Service August 29th, 2017 Hi Amy. Rubber cement works well for this. Also, it is a good idea to use brass tacks to further secure the leather.
      Thanks
      Paul-WWGOA Reply
      • Amy August 31st, 2017 Thanks, will try it this weekend! Reply
18. Clark August 15th, 2017 Nice job and thanks. Reply
19. Kenny March 21st, 2017 Great plans Reply
20. Greg January 13th, 2017 This is great if it’s a child’s shoe. Way too small of a dole for an adult boot Reply
    • DEACON TOM December 16th, 2019 I’m having the same issue – way way too small for adult boot. Seems like others made it work. I made it to exact dimensions Reply
      • Customer Service December 18th, 2019 Sorry that it didn’t work for you. I’d suggest making a copy, scaling up the size of the template. Cut out and check the size using the paper template before making the next one in wood.
        Thanks
        Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America Video Membership Reply
21. Ro Efa December 7th, 2016 As a woodworker for 73 years (so far), I’d suggest making the lower support a bit thicker and with the grain running horizontally…. less chance of splitting. Thanks for the nice plan. Reply
    • Paul January 24th, 2018 I have one suggestion…. Move this line “Click here to download the templates.” to the top of the page in bolder letters. I was at the stage of measuring where to attach the bottom piece and that is when I noticed a template was available. Reply
      • Customer Service January 25th, 2018 Hi Paul. Thank you for your feedback. I will forward your comments on.
        Thanks
        Jean-WWGOA Video Membership Reply
    • Paul January 24th, 2018 Good idea to run the grain horizontally. I did mine that way. Reply
22. Fred G December 7th, 2016 This is an excellent idea for my brother and brothers-in-law for Christmas. Thank you Reply
    • Fred G December 7th, 2016 This is an excellent idea for Christmas. Thank you Reply
23. Randall November 5th, 2016 cool idea as all men in my family wear boots. Reply
24. 1939curtis May 29th, 2016 I added some Leather wraps around the front horns makes for easy non marring of the boots. then added the Dallas cowboys on the top face. along with a drawn helmet. Reply
25. Roy January 22nd, 2016 Should have stayed in bed. 1st. I stuck the pattern with the image-side to the wood. 2nd. I cut the shape before I cut the traction kerfs. 3rd. I realized I had no way to accurately place the support — should have marked it first. 4th. my red oak had a hidden check that only appeared once I’d cut out the shape. New day and I will finish my jack — wish me luck. Reply
    • roylg January 29th, 2016 Mission accomplished. Lesson learned: look before you leap! Reply
26. John Christy December 20th, 2015 I had one many years ago so that I could take off my riding boots and missed placed it and I made one for myself but I had glued a piece of leather in the opening to prevent scraping the back the boots when I take them off especially my daughter when she takes off her good boots. I also used a small piece of non skid rubber which has groves for the top.
    Thanks for the idea and the measurements, your a life saver. Reply
    • liam October 27th, 2016 u smell like a roten garbage can Reply
      • Troy November 22nd, 2016 For real. Reply
27. JonP December 11th, 2015 Very timely to see this on WWGOA. I’ve been wanting to make this and the layout is nice to have. Thanks! Reply
    • Peg Lang December 12th, 2015 I live in Maine. Last winter we had an especially deep snow load. I made a boot jack last winter and it helped get my L.L. Bean boots off dozens of times. It is nice to have a real pattern for the measurements especially. Bye, I’m going out to the shop to make a better boot jack. Reply
28. Raj December 10th, 2015 Thanks for the idea , very interesting. Reply

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