Set it in a clean and dry area. It will harden eventually. Curing times will vary depending on how much resin is used. Cover tray with card board or anything to prevent air contact.
How to Cast Insects and Bugs in Resin
School holidays are the perfect time to get creative. The kids were given bug catching containers for Christmas, so were keen to catch bugs too. We spent part of our holiday getting close to nature in Margaret River. Many insects, frogs and bugs were caught. We photographed the live ones and released them back into the garden. The dead ones we kept to draw.
When the boys found a stunning (also dead) dragon fly, I wondered if we could preserve it in resin to keep. Like museum specimens or old-school paperweights.
After a trip to the hardware store and a few days of waiting patiently, we were thrilled with our resin cast insects.
RESIN & CATALYST: Buy a tin of CLEAR CASTING RESIN and a small bottle of RESIN CATALYST HARDENER. We bought ‘Protite Clear Casting & Embedding’ resin off the shelf from Bunnings. I had to ask for the catalyst as the store kept it behind their paint desk.
MOULD: The resin gets hot as it sets, so not all plastic containers are suitable. I found silicone to be the best. We bought silicone cake moulds from a baking shop, the half dome shape gives a smooth, fantastic finish and magnifies the bug when you view it from above.
SAFETY GEAR: You will need gloves and safety goggles and a well ventilated area. Do not skip any of these precautions! Resin is classified as possibly carcinogenic.
My kids stood two metres back and watched me mix the chemicals. I wore safety gear and did not allow them to pour, touch or stir the resin. Working outside is best as the fumes are strong, but make sure it’s not too windy or all your bugs will blow away!
OTHER GEAR: You will also need a rag, stirring stick and glass jar to mix the resin in.
Here’s how to do it:
- First you need to work out how much resin you will need for each pour and then calculate how many drops of catalyst to add. The ratio will be on the tin’s instructions. Keep in mind, we had three layers of resin for each paperweight. This sets the insect in the centre and stops it floating or sinking.
To measure, I poured water a third of the way up each mould, then tipped it into a measuring jug to see how many millilitres it was. I calculated that I would need 41 drops of catalyst. It’s important to put the exact number of drops in so the resin will set enough, but not so hard that it cracks.
I then poured that same water into my glass mixing jar and used a permanent marker to mark the level. (Dry the jar before continuing) - From here, we basically followed the instructions on the tin of resin.
Put on your safety gear, open the tin and pour resin into the mixing jar up to the level marked. Tightly reseal the tin, then get the kids (sitting a few meters away) to help you count out the drops of catalyst. They will love watching the resin change from clear to slightly yellow as you stir (insert science lesson here). Stir for two minutes to make sure it mixes well. - Pour the mixed resin into your moulds. Cover with something to stop dust blowing in. Wait until the surface becomes tacky (approx 40 min) before placing the insect on top. This will stop the insect sinking or moving. Don’t wait too long though or you will see a layer / line in your finished paperweight.
- Once the surface is tacky, place your insect in upside down. Remember the bottom of the mould will be the top of the finished paperweight. Mix and pour your second layer of resin. Again wait until that layer becomes tacky.
- Mix and pour your third and final layer, completely covering the insect.
- Wait for it to cure. The tin suggested 24 hours, but I found ours needed 2 days to set before handling them. Otherwise finger marks would mark the surface.
- Pop them out and play!
You will need to be home for half a day to make these and then wait two days for the resin to set.
You could try casting all sorts of other things too. We put a bright purple flower in one underneath a bee … and like magic the flower turned white! I think this was due to the heat of the resin, someone has since suggested we try dried flowers next time.
Hmmm … now what will we cast next?
Entomology Today
Insect and arthropod specimens in clear resin are a valuable tool for teaching entomology both in the classroom and in public outreach. A team at Texas A&M University worked via trial and error to refine an efficient, cost-effective process for resin casting and has shared the instructions with the entomological community in the open-access Journal of Insect Science. (Photo originally published in Bejcek et al 2018, Journal of Insect Science.)
By Josh Lancette
Last summer, a friend sent me a picture of a tick he found feeding on him after a weekend in the woods. He wanted help identifying it, concerned that it could possibly be a blacklegged tick and potential vector of Lyme disease.
Unfortunately, it was a terrible picture, so I wasn’t much help.
I do know how my friend felt, though. I’ve gone through the process of finding a tick and searching the internet for help identifying what species it is and information on if I should be concerned about any possible diseases.
Correct identification of ticks and other medically significant arthropods is important, but it’s not always easy to do. And it’s not necessarily easy to learn how to do, either. Pictures don’t always do a great job of conveying size, and sometimes coloration can be off depending on the photo’s lighting. A picture might be worth a thousand words, but it’s still not the real thing.
One effective method for learning to identify insects is using specimens. To use specimens most effectively, a team of researchers developed a method of embedding insects and other arthropods in resin, a clear, hard substance that protects the specimen while also allowing a person to observe the its morphological details. The protocol for embedding the specimens was published in April in the open-access Journal of Insect Science.
“At Texas A&M University, we do extensive teaching and outreach regarding arthropods of veterinary and medical importance,” says Gabriel Hamer, Ph.D., senior author on the report detailing the process. “Specimens are particularly important for teaching students and the public techniques to identify different species. We have found with extensive utilization of teaching specimens that they easily become damaged, and they are often rare specimens that are difficult to replace.”
And that’s where the resin comes in. While specimens that are pinned or preserved in ethanol can be damaged with handling, specimens embedded in resin can’t be.
Furthermore, embedding in resin ensures that any potentially dangerous specimen, such as a tick or kissing bug that carries a virus or parasite, won’t be mishandled and hurt someone.
“The resin-embedding approach is one resolution to ensure the preservation of specimens to retain the ability to identify, minimize risk of handling infectious specimens, and to be more resilient,” says Hamer.
Steps involved in casting insects and arthropods in clear resin include (clockwise from top left) setting the specimens in resin under a fume hood, cutting the resin into blocks using a band saw, sanding the resin blocks using a belt sander, and polishing the resin blocks with a buffing wheel. (Photo originally published in Bejcek et al 2018, Journal of Insect Science.)
Developing the method for embedding the specimens didn’t come without some trial and error first, though.
“From 2013 to 2017, we experimented with multiple resin types, different molds, and different sanding and polishing steps,” Hamer and co-authors write.
Eventually, they settled on a process that worked best by producing quality results as cheap as possible, and they wanted to share that process with others.
“Once we developed the protocol with positive reviews from colleagues, we wanted to ensure others in the entomological field had access to our lessons learned and final protocol that we have developed,” says Hamer.
With the increasing worldwide incidence of vector-borne disease in humans and animals, being able to train the next generation of veterinarians, medical doctors, and entomology professionals with actual vector specimens is increasingly important.
Read More
Journal of Insect Science
Josh Lancette is manager of publications at the Entomological Society of America.
Carefully, remove your creation from the tray. Be careful not to break it. Wait for 10 hours just to be safe. This will allow for maximum curing.
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Voila, you have a beautiful specimen encased in resin. Display it on your shelf and amaze your guests. I would advise you not to put it in your drink as it is a toxic chemical.
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49 Comments
Reply Upvote
Could this be used to extract DNA at a later date? For ecample if you put a tooth in the resin , would DNA be preserved?
2 replies
bluesyeux MikeB599
Reply 1 year ago
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Richard Attenborough will come along in 60 million years and recreate you from your DNA then keep you in a park for paying visitors to gawk over
MatthewD230 MikeB599
Reply 6 years ago
Reply Upvote
It would probably last a bit longer in the resin as it wouldn’t be subject to decay. Of course DNA has a half life of about 500 years, and no amount of resin can stop that.
Question 2 years ago on Step 4
Answer Upvote
Can the ice cube tray be plastic or what won’t stick?
Question 3 years ago on Introduction
Answer Upvote
I have a lovely dead dragonfly I found. Would love to preserve him. Do I need to do any preparation to the body? He seems very dry. Thanks
Reply Upvote
This is so cool, but an even cheaper and easier way to do it is by using Mod Podge. It sounds weird but it is true.
1 reply
BLASTFEMI alyxthegreat1
Reply 3 years ago
Reply Upvote
I’d love to know how you do it! I have some mod podge and some silkworm moths.
Question 4 years ago on Step 6
Answer Upvote
I know how to preserve the insects but my question is how do you place the insects in the first place? Dead? Spiders curl up when they die so that won’t work. Alive? Not gonna happen since they would more than likely thrash around and get everything messed up. Any advice out there?
2 answers
Fluffy_Isopod Jlreed61
Answer 4 years ago
Reply Upvote
They’re called relaxing jars and they’re easy to make
Fluffy_Isopod Jlreed61
Answer 4 years ago
Reply Upvote
Finding dead insects makes the hunt more challenging and it’s more ethical. You can put the insect in an airtight container with wet cloths or lots of paper towels and keep it there until the insect is softer. You should check to make sure the insect isn’t left for too long or mold can grow. I would also careful of the fact that certain bugs decay if left for too long.
Question 5 years ago on Introduction
Answer Upvote
I’m looking to preserve one of those chalky ‘be mine’ Valentine’s day hearts, perhaps as a necklace. Is there any other steps or precautions that I should take to do that?
1 answer
candjim BradyC15
Answer 4 years ago
Reply Upvote
Maybe paint it with modpodge first.
Question 4 years ago
Answer Upvote
I have a yellow onion 6 inches in diameter, would your system work on the onion?
Reply Upvote
This sounds like nit-picking, but I am interested in embedding some insects and found this site very useful. But somehow, somebody in the field started using the word ‘dry’ instead of ‘cure’. As far as I know it may have been some of the manufacturers of the products. If so that’s a shame because they should know better. When a resin is mixed with a catalyst a chemical reaction is involved. Once that is complete you have a new compound. There is no drying involved at all. Drying implies the loss of water or some other volatile liquid. ‘Curing’ is the proper word for what’s involved in plastic embedding.
Reply Upvote
I work at a school could I do this with larger items like a dissected frog for demonstrative purposes? It should work the same correct? It would be significantly cheaper then purchasing them premade.
2 replies
cmdrSLAGATHOR autumninteso
Reply 6 years ago
Reply Upvote
Yeah, it should be possible. I’ve seen sites online that sell dissected toads and pigeons preserved in resin at least.
saige hill autumninteso
Reply 7 years ago
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hey i thoght of this too but you must remove all the air inside the frog too make sure it dossent rot inside the hard sculpture. hope this helps
Reply Upvote
Hi. I want to know what you mean by a catalyst?
2 replies
Curtis S.A PolkaM1
Reply 7 years ago
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A catylyst is something im chemistry that speeds up a reaction, but is not used in it.
An example is the catalytic converter on cars. They contain platinum, which speeds the decomposition of Carbon Monoxide into Carbon Dioxode.
With acrylics, its something thst speeds the hardening process.
DIYWEAPONS PolkaM1
Reply 8 years ago on Introduction
Reply Upvote
A catalyst is somthing which makes something react with something else.
