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Apricot Oil: How is it used in Aromatherapy & Cosmetics?
Apricot oil (INCI: Prunus armeniaca) is a rich source of essential fatty acids, antioxidants and vitamins. Aromatherapists and cosmetic chemists have used it for centuries as an ingredient in their formulations due to its skin-conditioning properties. It is a light-yellow plant oil extracted from apricot kernels by cold-pressing or solvent extraction methods. Aromatherapists recognise apricot as one of the oils with a long history in aromatherapy, which can be used to create potent blends with anti-inflammatory properties.
The origins of Apricot oil
The apricot tree is a fruit-bearing deciduous shrub belonging to the Rosacea family’s Prunus genus. Almonds, apples, cherries, plums and peaches are also members of this group, including close to 400 species. The apricot tree can grow to be about 20 feet in height and is a relatively hardy plant that’s tolerant of temperatures as low as minus 30 degrees Celsius. Apricots are thought to have originated in China (although some believe that they actually originated from Armenia) and were used extensively in traditional Chinese medicine to treat such ailments as diarrhoea, constipation, and symptoms of the common cold. As of 2021, Turkey is the world’s largest producer of apricots, followed by Iran and Uzbekistan.
The oil is extracted from the kernel of apricot via a process called ‘cold-pressing’, which involves crushing the kernel between heavy steel plates in an industrial press at a low temperature (cold-pressed) to preserve the quality of the extracted light yellow oil. Solvent extraction is sometimes used to extract apricot oil. However, this can cause changes to the chemical compounds in the oil, leading to an inferior and lower-quality product. Apricot kernel oil is produced as the by-product of apricot kernels being processed to make other food products such as jams, chutneys or desserts. The apricot kernels, which are removed during this process to produce the oil, can also be processed into Apricot shell powder (INCI: Prunus armeniaca seed powder) using a traditional grinding method called milling. This process produces apricot kernel powder, a light brown-coloured substance that can be used as an ingredient in the production of cosmetics to create exfoliant-type products.
Apricot kernel shell powder
The apricot kernel shell powder is also retained from the manufacturing process. It is commonly added as an abrasive to cosmetic skincare formulations, including beauty products such as soaps, cleansing creams, lotions and masks, to create a manual exfoliating action on application and removal. It helps to give these wash-off cosmetic products extra exfoliating properties with the textured kernel powder, gently removing dead skin cells and smoothing rough patches without being too harsh. Apricot kernel powder has been commonly used as a fully biodegradable alternative to micro-beads in exfoliating scrubs.
The benefits of using Apricot kernel oil
The most common use of apricot oil is in aromatherapy, where it is used as a carrier oil for massage treatments. It has anti-inflammatory properties, so it is generally believed to help relieve some discomfort when applied topically or massaged into sore muscles. Apricot oil closely resembles the skin’s natural sebum, a mixture of lipids and fatty acids produced naturally by our skin. So, it makes an excellent choice when formulating skin and hair care products.
Apricot oil is high in essential unsaturated fatty acids (EFA’s) Alpha-Linolenic acid (Omega-3), Linoleic acid (Omega-6), and Oleic acid (Omega-9), which are known for their nourishing, moisturising, and antioxidant properties. This allows apricot kernel oil to support skin elasticity and moisture content and protect against dryness, essential for maintaining healthy skin and the appearance of fine lines. Also present in the apricot kernel oil are Phytosterols (a natural compound found in plant cells.) Phytosterols have been shown to improve the elasticity and firmness of skin whilst giving apricot oil some of its antibacterial and anti-fungal properties. Apricot kernel oil is also rich in polyphenols, antioxidants that may help prevent premature skin ageing, reduce inflammation, and boost collagen production, making skin appear smoother. Apricot kernel oil also contains a natural antioxidant, Tocopherol (Vitamin E). This can make it effective as an ingredient in skin care by neutralising free radicals that cause cell damage. Vitamin E is also a well-known anti-inflammatory agent that may help soothe irritated or damaged skin. The other vitamins, such as trace amounts of Vitamin B17 found in Apricot kernel oil, also help the skin with its natural repair process and protection against environmental damage. Apricot kernel oil is a fantastic ingredient for hair care, too. It has been shown to be nourishing and conditioning whilst boosting shine. The oleic and linoleic acid found in apricot kernel oil can help nourish dry or damaged locks of hair while preventing breakage, helping to retain moisture, improving resilience and promoting healthy hair.
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