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Крепления для сноуборда UNION LEGACY PURPLE SS22
Жесткость базы: 6/10
Жесткость хайбека: 6/10
Жесткость стреп: 6/10
Назначение: Freestyle
База Stage 6 Duraflex ST: тот же легкий и прочный материал, что и Duraflex, но с увеличенным количеством стекловолокна для большей отдачи при меньшем весе. Разработана для низких температур
Бушинги OTE Fused Vaporlite. Материал на 20% легче, но он такой же водостойкий, прочный и подавляющий вибрации
Canted EVA Footbeds: скошенная стелька для естественного положения ступни; снимает часть нагрузки на коленный сустав, уменьшает боль в этой области при катании и создает дополнительные рычаги для мощных олли
Пяточная дуга изготовлена из прочного экструдированного алюминия Extruded 3D Aluminum и не меняет своей формы вне зависимости от нагрузки на нее; обеспечивает оптимальную поддержку пятки и минимизирует сопротивление
Хайбэк Legacy Duraflex ST: созданный для того, чтобы сохранять прочность и жесткость в широком диапазоне холодных температур
Регулировка наклона хайбэка: Classic FLAD
Верхний стреп Forma Lab – комфорт, стабильная поддержка, высочайший уровень отзывчивости
Нижний стреп TS 2.0 Ultragrip – мультипозиционная конструкция с покрытием, предотвращающим соскальзывание с носка ботинка, мягко и комфортно держит ногу; регулировка стрепа была переработана и усилена – для дополнительной прочности
Бакли Magnesium: легкие и прочные, с мягким ходом, не требующим дополнительных усилий
Grade 8.8 Hardware: компания Union использует крепежные элементы только из прочнейшей стали, учитывая, какие высокие нагрузки приходятся на многие элементы креплений
Регулировка стрепа осуществляется без применения дополнительных инструментов
Мини-диски совместимы с традиционной системой закладных 4×2 и Channel.
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Volley & Bayonet
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Fernando Enterprises paints Union cavalry and Editor in Chief Bill bases them up.
First Look: Barrage’s 28mm Streets & Sidewalks
Editor in Chief Bill looks at some new terrain products, which use space age technology!
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Comments or corrections?
I’ve recently switched to Vallejo paints and purchased their ACW boxed set as a starter.
I was surprised to find 807 Oxford Blue has pronounced purple tint that doesn’t show on the color chart and I’m not too happy with it.
Is this supposed to represent the shade Union jackets faded out to, or is it not that smart?
What ever the reason, it clashes mightily with my existing regiments which are much darker – say equivalent to 899 Dark Prussian Blue on the chart.
Now I dry brush in Dove Grey anyway which lightens up the detail but has any one else had doubts over the Oxford Blue?
I remember comparing those two colors and going with the Prussian dark blue from the start for union troops.
I like the Oxford. Gives a nice contrast. But then I’ve probably used 6 or 8 different blues…
1st world problem. whaddayagonnadu?
I have used Tamiya Dark Blue in the past but am in the process of acquiring Vallejo – this is a great heads-up
That “fading to purple” thing is a modern one from reenacting. Modern inexpensive blue dyes and less than 100% wool gives you those “Barney” coats.
Period coats were made from 100% wool (with a few exceptions) and dyed with real indigo. This gave them a brighter “dark” blue color, overall, and when they faded, tended to have a slightly greenish cast. This was even more true of the saxon-blue trousers.
Although of an officer, this fellow’s coat is much closer to original issue items than the darker blue so often seen.
I don’t know what’s up with his trousers, but they, too, should be like his coat if dark blue, or saxon-blue.
Here’s the cuff of an original coat. Note the color which, despite the photographer’s light, would appear in a similar way in natural light.
Reaper makes a triad that works very well for Union troops: Worn Navy, Soft Blue, and Heather Blue. Heather Blue is a nice kersey blue for trousers, while the other two colors are good for coats and forage caps.
Reaper also makes a triad consisting of Shadowed Stone, Stone Gray, and Weathered Stone, which are dirty brown grays that are very useful for Confederate uniforms.
Thanks for the tip on Reaper.
I use Liquitex Prussian blue as a base then lighten with drops of white for two highlights.
I use the Oxford blue for my confederate who have English manufactured uniforms or jackets, looks good mixed in with the other greys and butternuts.
Cheers
I use Vallejo and for Union uniforms specifically I use the Prussian Dark Blue with Prussian Blue to highlight … seems to look ok.
It is always hard to pick a colour. I wouldn’t go for a dark blue with any purple,red or violet in them,. I have chosen Foundry 65c French Blue Light for my 10mm army. For these armies I always go lighter then the original. And I rather use paints used in a painting which I like, then sticking to the historical colours. For this army I was inspired by the Cyclorama of the Battle for Atlanta, which chooses medium blue for union soldiers and an Orangie hue of Ochre for the Rebs.
Anyone know when the US Army changed the color of their canteen covers from blue in the Civil War to the tan/khaki of the late Indian Wars? I think it was sometime in the ’70s, but can’t find a specific year.
It came about with the 1872 uniform regulations. There was a whole shift in clothing, equipment, etc, including weapons.
BTW, the federal army never used “blue” as a regulation cover for canteens during the ACW. The contracts specified “wool” or “wool jean” material. Many contractors used a mouse-brown color cover, and that seemed to be the dominant color for canteen covers issued to federal troops, with dark blue wool, and then, rarely, light blue wool being seen. The latter blue colors came usually, but not always, from left over uniform material.
It is worth noting that originally, most canteens came with a leather strap. This was a natural tan leather color with a small black buckle. It quickly came to be a darker/oiled look through use and exposure. Only later in 1862 did one of the depots begin to issue canteens with white canvas/cloth straps.
Anyway, the 1872 regulations started the ball rolling in switching the US Army away from a French-influenced military to a Prussian-influenced military. Clothing styles, accouterments, etc, all started to reflect Prussian influence. The canteens went to a tan color. FWIW, many of these were also surplus ACW canteens remanufactured with new staples for the slings, and new covers. These surplus canteens were unissued, having remained in stock in the QM depots. Others were new made as required.
Many of the individual states continued to use ACW period gear, unaltered, or only lightly changed, until forced to play catch up with the regular army.
Another vote here for Dark Prussian Blue drybrushed with Prussian Blue. Works a treat for me.
Please excuse me for “butting in ” but I haven’t yet figured out how to start a new topic. I am building a diorama showing a column of U.S. Cavalry advancing down a canyon while having flankers out on each ridge line. It’s complete except I would use some suggestions for making the “dust” 100 horses would be kicking up as they move along the canyon floor. Thus far I have tried cotton batting, stretched out and thinned, then darkened somewhat using some of my wife’s makeup. It will suffice, but am soliciting suggestions for a better way to for dust clouds, partially obscuring the column but leaving most of the riders visible. Thanks.
As usual, Tim Kindred is right on the money with regard to uniform and canteen cover colors. Except for officers, whose uniforms were privately purchased and could come in a variety of shades, the issue enlisted men’s coats and jackets of the Union Army were dyed with an Indigo dye that gave them a decidedly lighter hue than the traditional “Navy” blue used by most wargamers. Problem is, the right colored paint is very hard to find! I used to buy an “Indigo blue” which I believe was made by Americana at Hobby Lobby that was pretty close. It went on darker but dried to a somewhat lighter color. They don’t make it any more, and I haven’t found anyone else who does either. I finally took the remnants of a bottle to Lowe’s and had them match it. Now I have a whole quart of the stuff that should last me for the rest of my life!
Here is a YouTube video that gives a pretty good idea of the correct hues of both Union and Confederate uniforms:
Notice the difference between Grant’s and McClellan’s uniforms. Officers bought their own stuff, and the shade differed depending on their choice of material and tailor.
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