- Choose your acrylic nail sizes.
Tips and Tricks for Mastering the Art of Acrylics
Working with acrylic is an art. It’s very common for techs coming out of school to think that it will be easy—and they’re quickly surprised to discover how challenging it is to master. The only way to really grasp it is through practice. With so many kinds of products, nail types and imperfections, the whole experience can feel overwhelming. Before you give up, remember to give yourself time to practice and experiment until you find what works for you. Here, we offer some practical tips and tricks for working with acrylic to help you get started.
Choosing the Right Brush
Brushes can get pricey, so do your research first. We only use brushes that are 100-percent kolinsky. There are cheaper synthetic brushes out there, but it’s best to stay away from them for acrylic application. Synthetic hairs will stick to your acrylic like bubblegum. You can also find kolinsky and synthetic blends (or even blends with different, less expensive types of hair), but again, we prefer 100-percent kolinsky. While these brushes are more expensive, they will last 100 times longer than any mix and1,000 times longer than a synthetic brush.
When it comes to the size of the brush, bigger is not better. There’s a trend right now of using enormous brushes when applying acrylic. When we see that, we see a ton of product waste, flooded cuticles and overexposure. Brushes are formed with a well in the middle of them that holds the liquid. The bigger the brush, the more liquid you pick up. Even if you wipe out most of the liquid, you’ll notice that your monomer will become cloudy and contaminated by the end of the service, and you’ll have to dispose of it, so it’s fairly wasteful—and we all know liquid is one of the priciest products in the service! In addition, if there’s too much liquid in the brush and you’re working too wet, when you press to release the pearl of acrylic onto the nail, all of the liquid will release and run onto the nail and around the cuticle area, causing overexposure.
That being said, we will choose a larger brush (#10) when sculpting, because we want to pick up a lot of product. But when doing a thin overlay or fill, we’ll use a smaller #6 or #8 brush, as it allows you to pick up just the amount of product you need so you can control it with little waste.
Finally, don’t forget to clean your brush. If you get acrylic in it, simply clean it with monomer only. Yes, acetone will soak acrylic out as well, but it will also dry out your brush, and it will never be the same. A lot of brush cleaners will mix monomer and acetone, so make sure to read the ingredients before using. While monomer can take a bit longer to remove the acrylic, it will eventually break it down and your brush will be as good as new. Always check your brush at the end of the day or periodically between clients to make sure that there isn’t anything trapped in there. Removing already-cured acrylic is sometimes impossible.
Stress Area and Arch Placement
The stress area is where the free edge of the natural nail meets the acrylic, and it’s going to be different on every nail. Because this area is where the nail takes on the most pressure, it’s where the bulk of your product needs to be. The arch location, on the other hand, is all about overall beauty. You may prefer an arch closer to the cuticle, as it seems to lengthen the nail, almost slenderizing it a bit. Or you may prefer to go closer to the center, which is a more classic look. However, if you go too low, it will cause the nails to appear off-balance, so we like to keep the arch a bit higher than the stress area.
With all of the added product to maintain the stress area and arch, it’s easy for the enhancement to become too thick. Remember: Thicker is not better! Nails don’t handle bulky acrylic application well and will usually lift. The nail should be the same thickness at the cuticle and free edge, with the stress area being the thickest. A good rule of thumb is to keep the cuticle and free edge the thickness of a credit card.
What Are Acrylic Nails?
Acrylic nails are made with a combination of synthetic nail tips, powder (polymer), and a liquid (monomer) laid over the natural nail. The average professional set runs between $30 and $50.
Before you decide to do your own acrylic nails at home, it’s important to consider the pros and cons. Acrylic nails are extremely durable, and they can last a long time if you take care of them properly. They’re fairly affordable to do on your own at home.
On the other hand, acrylics sometimes look less natural than gel nails or natural nails. They can also hurt the nail bed and cuticles if you aren’t careful since they’re so rigid and inflexible. As long as you’re careful, though, DIY acrylic nails will last a long time and will give you the look of a professional manicure.
How to Do an Acrylic Manicure at Home
- Prep your nails.
You need to start out with properly prepped natural nails before you move on to applying acrylics. This will ensure your nails have a clean surface to stick to, which will make them last longer overall. We suggest cleaning your nails with soap, water, and isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning your nails, you should push back and trim your cuticles as well. This will help your acrylic nails bond with your entire nail bed and last as long as possible. Then, make sure to buff your nails so the acrylic nails will have a rougher surface to stick to.
It’s incredibly important that you prep and cleanse your nails and cuticles before applying acrylic nails. If you don’t, you run the risk of the acrylic nails popping off or not adhering properly.
- Choose your acrylic nail sizes.
Most DIY acrylic nail kits come with several different nail sizes so you can choose the acrylic nails that best fit your natural nails. You can also buy the tips separately, but beginners should start out with a kit for the best results. The free edge of your natural nail should fit right under the acrylic nail tips. If you can’t find the perfect size for each nail, you can gently file the acrylic nails to fit.
- Apply the acrylic nails with nail glue.
Once you’ve properly sized your nail tips, it’s time to apply them to your natural nails. Use just a dot or two of nail glue to either your natural nails or your acrylic nail tips. Then, gently press down on each nail for a few seconds to ensure a tight bond. Repeat this process until you’ve applied all 10 nails.
- Cut and file the acrylic tips as needed.
Now that you’ve applied the acrylic nail tips, you can cut and shape them to your liking. Make sure to be gentle when filing— you don’t want to loosen the bond with your natural nail.
- Prepare your acrylic materials.
Before you start preparing the acrylic solution and powder, make sure you’re in a well-ventilated area. These chemicals can be harsh and overwhelming, even if you aren’t a beginner.
First, pour your liquid monomer into a small glass dish or container. Then, pour the acrylic powder into a separate dish or container.
- Apply the acrylic solution to your nails.
Start by dipping an acrylic nail brush into the liquid monomer. Then, dip the brush into the acrylic powder to create a small bead of acrylic. Pat the brush on a paper towel or on the side of the dish to remove any excess liquid.
Once you have the solution on your brush, apply the acrylic bead to your nail near the cuticle, or at the start of the natural nail bed. Use the brush to pull the bead down the nail to the free edge of the acrylic tip. Then, you can use the nail brush to shape the acrylic and make sure it covers your entire nail. This is also your chance to smooth out any bumps or ridges. Repeat this process until you’ve covered each nail.
Wait at least 10 minutes for the nails to dry before moving on to the next step. You can either let them air dry or place them under a fan.
- File and shape the acrylic nails.
Once your acrylic nails are dry, file them to suit your preferences. Pay special attention to the edge of the nails, as they’re typically a little uneven after the acrylic application.
Some acrylic powders are already colored to look like nail polish, but some require you to add your own nail polish for a finished look. Make sure to choose an acrylic-friendly nail polish.
If you want your DIY acrylic nails to last as long as possible, you need to finish them off with an acrylic-friendly topcoat. This will provide a strong seal that will keep your nails shiny and chip-free.
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