Your front door sets the mood for visitors. Freshen up your entry to help your home make a great first impression.
If You Don’t Understand Conceptual Art, It’s Not Your Fault
Conceptual art gets a bad rap. It’s the butt of endless jokes. Works of this genre that were nominated for the high honor of the Turner Prize were called BS by the U.K. culture minister. Shia Labeouf used it as an excuse to put a bag over his head. So why is conceptual art so confounding? How do curators make it palatable? And what are we even talking about when we talk about “conceptual art”?
“It’s not a movement, it’s not a style, it’s a set of strategies,” says Andrew Wilson, curator of the Tate’s upcoming exhibition “Conceptual Art in Britain 1964–1979.” One can see the rub instantly: A “set of strategies” is a spot-on description, but hardly a straightforward one.
Conceptual art—its Western variant anyway—emerged in the 1960s as a reaction to Clement Greenberg’s militant commitment to formalism and art that concerned itself with the flat surface of the picture plane, such as Abstract Expressionism. Sol LeWitt laid out the terms for conceptual art in his seminal “Paragraphs on Conceptual Art,” published in the June 1967 issue of Artforum. “In conceptual art the idea or concept is the most important aspect of the work,” LeWitt wrote. “When an artist uses a conceptual form of art, it means that all of the planning and decisions are made beforehand and the execution is a perfunctory affair.” That planning is, essentially, a set of strategies.
Sol LeWitt
Wall Drawing #579 , 1988
MASS MoCA
Sol LeWitt
Wall Drawing #340, 1980
MASS MoCA
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But isn’t all art planned with a concept? The nebulous taxonomy of conceptual art isn’t easy, even for the experts. Jens Hoffmann, deputy director of exhibitions and programs at the Jewish Museum, told me he long pondered similar questions himself, though a meeting with John Baldessari offered some clarity. A towering figure at 6 feet 7 inches, known for, among other things, putting dots on faces, Baldessari told him that “conceptual art wasn’t about art that had a concept, but about interrogating the concept of art,” as Hoffmann recalls.This interrogation, not confined to any one medium, has historically been seen as the province primarily of white men (we’ll revisit this glaring issue later). Among the touchstones of early conceptual art are Bruce Nauman, Joseph Beuys, Eva Hesse, and Joseph Kosuth, whose One and Three Chairs (1965) features a physical chair, a photograph of that chair, and the dictionary definition of a chair. It’s what you’ll see in any Art History 101 class and it’s guaranteed to make students’ eyes roll—and not without good reason.
Curating Conceptual Art
The self-reflexive underpinnings of Kosuth’s work run dangerously close to reinforcing art as the domain of an elite few with the requisite knowledge. Indeed, the experience of engaging with conceptual art is often marked by the suspicion that the work’s central, revelatory idea is somewhere in your mind’s peripheral vision, just out of sight. A bad conceptual work makes you feel that the idea isn’t worth finding. A good one spurs you to keep searching. Why did Maurizio Cattelan hang every work of art he’s ever created from the ceiling of the Guggenheim? It’s a funny but cerebral question that’s likely to leave visitors puzzling, and happily so, for some time.
Providing a viewer the information to get to that central thought, or set of strategies, without overwhelming them is a perpetual challenge, but curators confronting how to make conceptual art digestible without inducing a tummyache must tackle it. Hoffmann, who has staged ambitious re-thinks of seminal conceptual art exhibitions like “Other Primary Structures,” recommends a balanced diet of programming, tours, and didactics (aka, words that tell you things). But the strategy isn’t without peril. The wall texts that accompany conceptual shows can grow dense “to the point at which the artwork becomes difficult to see,” as Wilson puts it.
John Baldessari
Hegel’s Cellar: Two Boats, 1986
Diane Villani Editions
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Two Unfinished Letter, 1992-1993
Brooke Alexander, Inc.
Ideally, wall text is superfluous. In the late 2000s, curator Leslie Jones of LACMA worked in conjunction with the the Tate’s Jessica Morgan to mount “John Baldessari: Pure Beauty,” a major retrospective of the artist’s work that traveled around the globe. “Baldessari’s work is very clear,” Jones told me. (“Clear” is not often a word one hears used to describe conceptual art.) Sometimes pared down to just words scrawled on a canvas, the tongue-in-cheek pieces were effectively their own wall texts. “Humor puts people at ease. They laugh first and then they start thinking,” Jones said.
Conceptual Art in the World
Baldessari’s visual language challenges the perception that conceptual art is either wholly the domain of the over-informed (Kosuth) or of those hungry for vapid spectacle (Koons). “In the ’60s, when [Baldessari] was first leaving painting behind, he wanted to talk to people in a language they understood,” Jones told me. “And for him that meant text and photographic image. That seemed the most democratic.”
Even in the founding document of conceptualism, one finds an impulse towards populism—or at least the recognition that it is people who make meaning. That may seem strange given that conceptual art today is often viewed as hermetic, self-reflexive, and impenetrable except to the mind that divined it. But “once it is out of his hand the artist has no control over the way a viewer will perceive the work,” LeWitt wrote. “Different people will understand the same thing in a different way.”
And that “thing” wasn’t a flat splatter canvas but bits and pieces of the real world. It’s a fact that Wilson wants to impress upon viewers when they see “Conceptual Art Britain,” which opens in April. “One of the things that I would very much hope people might come away from this exhibition with is actually understanding how engaged [conceptual art] is with the stuff of everyday life,” he told me.
Ulysses, 18 Symbols, 1998
Lia Rumma
Case in point: Roelof Louw’s Soul City (Pyramid of Oranges) (1967). The conceptual work is part of an art-historical dialogue about form (“against the modernist ideas of geometrical syntax,” says Wilson), but it is also a pyramid of 5,800 oranges. As they rot or are taken away by visitors, the geometry shifts and changes, thanks to the organic processes, be they our hands or the passage of time. Go on, eat one—it’s a good idea.
Considerations Before You Get Started
Before you pick up a paintbrush, think through these concerns to ensure you get the job done right.
When to Paint a Front Door
Generally speaking, it’s best to paint your front door on a day with nice weather during the spring or fall. Depending on where you live, summer may be too hot, and winter can get too cold. All primer, paint, and sealant labels have detailed instructions regarding temperature limitations, so refer to those guidelines and then check the weather to make sure you’re good to go.
In addition to avoiding extreme temperatures, paint your front door when it’s dry and there’s no chance of rain or snow. If unexpected precipitation interrupts your project, shield your freshly painted door with painter’s plastic or a tarp.
What Kind of Paint to Use
Because your door is exposed to the elements, choose a high-quality exterior paint that can withstand moisture and fluctuating temperatures. Interior paint will chip and crack if painted on an exterior door.
“You want to use a high-quality exterior paint in a satin finish,” says painting professional Colin Nellis, owner of Cincinnati’s Five Star Painting. “The quality will allow for less fading, and the satin will allow for more washability and protection in a high-traffic area.”
Alternatively, you can opt for a semi-gloss or high-gloss finish for that bold, shiny look, but keep in mind that this finish may require more upkeep over the years.
What Color to Choose
Picking the right paint color for your front door can completely change the look of your home. A bright paint color can make the whole front of your home pop, while a darker shade can help the exterior feel elegant and sophisticated. Whether you embrace a vibrant high-contrast hue, one that syncs with the front of your house, or your favorite paint color since childhood, this is your opportunity to make your home reflect your personal style.
What You’ll Need
Equipment / Tools
- Screwdriver
- 2½- or 3-inch angled paintbrush
- 4-inch high-density paint roller
Materials
- Cleaning cloth
- Sandpaper (120 grit)
- Tack cloth (available at hardware stores)
- Drop cloth
- Painter’s tape
- Primer
- Exterior paint
Instructions
With painting supplies ready to go, it’s time to dive into the process. Follow this step-by-step guide for how to paint a front door, and you’ll be golden.
Remove the Door and Hardware
This step is technically optional, but removing the hardware makes your job easier and helps the end results look more professional. Simply remove the door handle and lock, and place the pieces in a plastic bag for safekeeping. Alternatively, wrap the hardware in painter’s tape. It’s also a good idea to remove the door completely if you can. Have a helper hold the door while you unscrew the hinges, then set the door on a sturdy sawhorse while you prep, sand, and paint the door. This extra step helps prevent drips and allows you to work in a covered yet well-ventilated area, like a carport or garage so that debris won’t fall onto the wet paint.
Wash and Dry the Door
“Standard prep for painting a front door is pretty straightforward,” Nellis insists. “You want the surface to be clean, dry, and dull. We start by hand-washing the door with warm water until it’s clean, and then wipe it dry.” All it takes is a bucket of soapy water and a clean cloth to get the job done. For tougher areas, use a scrubber sponge or brush to remove residue. Let the door dry completely before moving to the next step. “A good rule of thumb is 24 hours,” Nellis says. “That way, you can be sure that you don’t trap any moisture in the door, which could create premature failures and bubbling in the future.”
Sand With 120-Grit Sandpaper
If your door is in fine shape, a light sanding will do. “I suggest using a 120-grit sandpaper and gently sanding in the direction of the wood grain,” says Siobhan Alvarez, a crafting expert and blogger. “This helps prepare the surface for the new layers of paint and primer.” However, if your door is in very rough shape with peeling paint or deep scratches, you’ll need to spend extra time sanding. Begin by removing large chips of paint with a metal putty knife or scraper. Next, use a palm sander starting with a low grit (80), graduating to medium grit (120), and then finishing with a high grit (220). Finally, use a tack cloth to remove dust and debris without adding moisture. Make sure to completely remove all dust so small particles don’t get into the wet paint.
Lay Drop Cloth and Apply Painter’s Tape
Lay a drop cloth around your door to catch wayward paint drips or spills. Apply painter’s tape to protect any decorative details on the door that you don’t want painted.
Prime Then Allow to Dry
Priming ensures smooth and consistent coverage and proper adhesion. Most high-quality exterior paints allow for application right over a properly prepared and previously painted door. Nevertheless, Nellis says that priming is a good idea if you’re painting over a previously unpainted door or applying over an existing dark or vibrant color. Follow the paint label’s instructions about how long to wait for the primer to dry before painting.
Paint Two or Three Coats
With your door fully prepped and ready, now is the fun part: giving your front door two to three fresh coats of exterior paint. This application of several thin coats of paint builds up a protective surface on the door. “Don’t rush it,” Nellis suggests. “Plan to apply at least two coats and don’t lay it on too thick. A high-quality brush and 4-inch mini roller can go a long way with a little practice.” Use an angled paintbrush to paint any molding, panels, or edges on the door, and then follow with the roller to create a smooth finish.
Allow the Paint to Dry Thoroughly
Always follow the dry time indicated on the paint label before applying the next coat of paint, keeping in mind that your dry time can vary based on the humidity level and temperature where you’re painting. “You do not need a topcoat when painting your front door if you use a good-quality exterior paint, as this acts as a sealer against the elements,” notes Alvarez. Some topcoats can cause yellowing over time due to exposure to the elements.
Clean Up
After applying the last coat of paint, promptly clean your paintbrushes and rollers. Once the door is dry, remove the painter’s tape, replace the hardware, and put away the drop cloth. Finally, replace the door if you removed it from its hinges.
Prepping to Paint Metal
If you’re changing up a metal surface for your home, you may think you can dip a paintbrush in, slap on a fresh coat of paint, and call it a day, but you’ll need to prepare if you want a long-lasting metal paint job. Here are some things to know about preparing your metal surface.
Primers
When painting metal, primer is a must. Picking a primer isn’t always straightforward, however. You have to factor in the state of your metal surface. Some surfaces are in good shape and only require a single coat of metal primer or spray primer. If your metal has been subject to a lot of weathering or wear and tear and is far from its heyday, it might require two coats.
Always choose a rust-inhibiting primer like zinc chromate or iron oxide to protect your metal from rusting. A spray primer is best for very uneven metal surfaces, while a traditional metal primer that you apply with a brush or roller is ideal for smooth surfaces.
Best Paint for Metal Surfaces
There are two main types of metal paint you can choose from for this unique project: water-based and oil-based paint.
- Water-based paint is ideal for painting indoor spaces because it offsets fewer volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and is more likely to chip compared to oil-based paints.
- Oil-based paint is the best paint for metal surfaces outdoors because it’s more durable and longer-lasting. If you use oil-based paint, plan your project to include a longer drying time of around two days, and be sure to wear a safety mask while handling this type of metal paint.
Metal Painting Application Types
Knowing which tool to use for the job helps ensure your paint lasts. Brushes and rollers will give you a very distinct look and require a different application technique when compared to spray paint. While there are pros and cons to both, your choice will ultimately depend on what you plan to paint.
- Spray paint: Best to avoid brush strokes on irregularly shaped objects with lots of nooks and crannies, this method is your fastest-drying option for painting metal. But, because spray paint produces a thinner coat, the paint won’t last as long.
- Brush or roller: Though this method takes longer, using a brush or roller gets you a thicker coat on outdoor items that need greater protection from wind, sun, and rain. Painting with a brush or roller offers more controlled application outside, which can be useful if it’s breezy.
Safety Precautions
Safety should be at the forefront of any project you work on, and painting metal is no exception. According to the
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
, working with rusty metal poses potential health risks, including:
- Lacerations that can lead to tetanus
- “Metal fume fever” from exposure to iron oxide fumes
- Eye abrasions
It’s important to work in an airy environment while removing rust from old metal, if possible. You should also wear gloves, eye protection, and a face mask to avoid injuries or illness.
Give your interior a budget-friendly makeover
Identify the Metal Type
- Wrought iron
- Steel
- Cast iron
Nonferrous metals include:
- Aluminum
- Copper
- Stainless steel
- Zinc
Pro tip: Sometimes, ferrous metals are covered in a thin layer of zinc to help avert rust. If you’re working with a metal like this, it can be treated as a nonferrous metal when applying primer.
Remove Rust and Old Paint
- A wire brush for everyday surface rust
- A wire brush drill attachment for larger areas of caked-on rust
- A liquid rust remover for soaking and removing the most stubborn rust spots
Vigorously scrub the metal surface, removing as much rust and old paint as you can.
Clean the Metal
Sand the Metal
Apply the Primer
Paint the Metal
Photo: dontree_m / iStock / Getty Images Plus / Getty Images
Let the Paint Cure
Finish With a Sealer
Should You DIY Painting Metal?
Most metal paint projects are easy projects for avid DIYers, but there are times when you should consider hiring a local painter to do the job, as just knowing how to paint metal isn’t always enough. Metal surfaces with excessive rust can pose a safety risk and might be unsalvageable, while some metal projects require extensive labor, such as painting a metal roof.
If you’re on the fence about whether you can paint a rusty piece of metal, your best bet is to ask the pros. Know that the cost to hire a professional painter is significantly higher than the cost to DIY your project. You can get away with spending between $100 and $200 to DIY a metal paint job, but the price to hire a professional painter ranges anywhere from $200 to $6,000, depending on the project.
Paige Bennett contributed to this piece.
Frequently Asked Questions
What kind of paint sticks to metal?
Oil-based paints stick best to metal surfaces because the solvent in the paint contains the mineral turpentine, which adheres better than water-based paints. Flaking, blistering, and peeling are all less likely when you use oil-based paints, but these blemishes are very common if you use a water-based paint on metal. While oil-based paints are longer-lasting, their sheen tends to wear off over time.
What’s the best way to paint metal?
Brushes, rollers, and spray paint are the best ways to paint metal surfaces, depending on your project goals. Spray paint is the easiest method for painting metal and can make painting complicated pieces with many curves and grooves a breeze. However, using traditional paint with a roller or brush creates a harder, more durable finish.
Should I prime metal before painting?
Yes, primer is an essential step for preventing rust formation on your newly-painted metal surface. Additionally, primer can help the paint stick to the metal better and can slow down the formation of rust if you buy a rust-inhibiting primer. Just be sure to avoid water-based primers, which aren’t made for metal surfaces.
Can I paint over already painted metal?
Yes, you can paint over already painted metal, but—before painting—you’ll want to use sandpaper on the area to achieve a rough surface. This helps prevent the paint from peeling or flaking. Remove damaged paint with 120-grit sandpaper. If the paint is in good condition, use 240-grit sandpaper. Brush off any dust before applying the primer.
How do I remove paint from metal?
Using a wire brush, forcefully scrub the surface to remove paint from metal. You’ll want to remove any lingering rust, too. For larger areas with caked-on rust, you may need to use a wire brush drill attachment. If the paint still won’t budge, apply a chemical paint stripper to the area and scrape off the paint, after following the paint stripper’s instructions.
