Paint small, circular strokes using just the tip of the brush. This bottom part of the cloud is translucent because of the “dry brush”. Use the brush to blend the paint on the canvas. The trick is to make sure there is barely paint on the brush so the cloud can be light and somewhat see-through.
Jo Sonja’s Artist Acrylic – Moss Green, 2.5 oz tube
Phthalo Green is a transparent, cool, bright, high intensity color used in oil and acrylics. It comes from a Phthalocyanine Blue pigment where most of the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with chlorine, forming highly stable molecules. It has similar pigment properties and permanence to Phthalo Blue. It is slow drying and an excellent base color for mixing a range of bright greens. Phthalo Green is considered a very good alternative to Viridian because it is intense and mixes well and can be used to emphasize mineral colors in various tints. However, its tinting strength is very high, so it can overpower other colors. This pigment most closely resembles the discontinued and toxic Verdigris.
Permanence
Phthalo Greens are completely lightfast and resistant to alkali, acids, solvents, heat, and ultraviolet radiation. They are currently used in inks, coatings, and many plastics due to their stability and are considered a standard pigment in printing ink and the packaging industry.
Phthalo Green has no significant hazards, but it contained PCBs (polychlorinated biphenyls) until 1982.
History
This bright blue-green was developed in 1935 and has been in use since 1938.
PB15:3 – Phthalo Blue
beta copper phthalocyanine
Phthalo Blue PB15:3 is a structural variant of Phthalo Blue PB15 that produces more greenish tones.
Materials
- 11 x 14 Canvas
- Acrylic Paint (I use Liquitex BASICS)
- Paint Brushes (I used Princeton Velvetouch & Royal & Langnickel)
- T-Square Ruler
- Painters Tape
- Pencil
- Water Cupe
- Palette
- Protected Workspace
- Titanium White
- Mars Black
- Cadmium Yellow Medium Hue
- Phthalo Green
- Cerulean Blue
- Turquoise Blue
- Dioxazine Purple
- Burnt Sienna
- Bright Aqua Green
Load your palette with the two colors: “cerulean blue” and “titanium white”. Load your 3/4″ flat wash brush into water and pat dry. Then load it into just cerulean blue. Paint left and right strokes with the cerulean blue and go down about a few inches.
Then, without rinsing the brush, load the tip of the brush into titanium white. Add the titanium white below the cerulean blue and blend up. This will start to create a gradient blend.
Continue to paint left and right strokes all the way down to the horizon line. Gradually add more white as you work your way down. The goal is to make the sky darker at the top (pure cerulean blue) and lighter at the bottom where the horizon line is.
Then gently lift the painters tape. I did not wait for this to dry before lifting the tape.
Paint Water
Load your palette with: “titanium white”, “turquoise blue” and “bright aqua green”. Use the 3/4 flat brush to paint only titanium white just under the horizon line. Go down about 1″ with this white.
Then add a very small amount of turquoise to your brush (like a very small dot of paint on the corner of the brush). Blend it up into the white but not all the way! Leave a pure white area just under the horizon line.
Go down about three inches with this very light turquoise color. Then load your brush in solid turquoise. Paint below the light turquoise area and then gently blend it up. The goal with this water is to create a gradient blend of white to very light turquoise to dark turquoise on the bottom.
Blend this very gently. Make sure there still is a small white water area just under the horizon line.
Go down about halfway and then load your palette with “bright aqua green”.
Next, wipe your brush off. Then load it into the “bright aqua green”. Blend this bright aqua green into the turquoise to create a lighter aqua area in the water.
Then continue down the rest of the water area with turquoise until you get to the bottom edge of the canvas.
