Avoid using direct sunlight as it can cause blistering or cracking. Don’t place fresh varnished paintings against each other or wrap them until fully cured.
How to varnish an acrylic painting?
Consider a few aspects of choosing the perfect varnish for your acrylic painting. You must use the correct type of varnish to seal your acrylic painting. That’s why we are presenting solutions to assist you in choosing the proper varnish for an acrylic painting. The two sub-sections we will discuss are water-based vs. solvent-based varnish and matte vs. satin vs. glossy finish, which you should prefer.
Water-based vs. Solvent-based Varnish
When it comes to varnishing acrylic paintings, deciding between water-based and solvent-based varnish can be confusing. Let’s look at the differences between them. Factors to consider are application, yellowing, and durability.
Application of water-based varnish is easy. It has minimal odor and toxicity, dries quickly, and is easy to clean. Solvent-based varnish needs proper ventilation as it has solid fumes and toxicity. Cleaning requires solvents like mineral spirits or turpentine oil.
Water-based varnish is more prone to yellowing over time. Solvent-based varnish is less prone due to its less reactive formula.
Durability-wise, water-based is less durable yet still provides adequate protection for indoor use. Solvent-based gives excellent protection from external elements.
Choose your varnish based on your artwork and preferences. For delicate materials or unconventional techniques like collage, water-based varnish is safer. For large-scale paintings meant for outdoor display, solvent-based can provide better protection. Consider all factors carefully to ensure your artwork stands the test of time. Choose wisely – the wrong one can ruin your masterpiece!
Matte, Satin or Glossy Finish: Which One to Prefer
Deciding on the perfect varnish for your acrylic masterpiece can be challenging. Matte, satin, or glossy? Each has its unique qualities to consider. Look at the table below to find the advantages and disadvantages of each type.
| Finish Type | Description | Advantages | Disadvantages |
| Matte Finish | Delicate, non-shiny appearance. | No glare, suitable for dark paintings. Camouflages imperfections. | Poor water resistance. Uneven applications can look whitish. |
| Satin Finish | A moderate sheen with a soft luster. | Preserves color intensity. Resistant to UV and moisture damage. | Costly. It takes longer to dry than a Glossy finish. |
| Glossy Finish | Highly reflective coat. | It dries quickly, is durable, and mimics oil painting texture. | Glare can make viewing angles difficult. Poor quality canvases or scratches may be highlighted. |
Also, consider the painting’s location – will it be traditional or contemporary? Research other artists to get ideas. I once bought a dull abstract painting, so I applied a glossy finish, bringing out vibrant colors I had never seen before. Get ready to buff and buff until perfection!
Prepare the Painting Surface to Varnish Process
To prepare your acrylic painting surface for the varnishing process, cleaning and sanding the cover are two crucial steps you must follow precisely. Cleaning and smoothing the surface can create a better surface adhesion for the varnish. These sub-sections will help you to get the most desirable result for making a perfect finishing coat for your acrylic painting.
Clean the Painting Surface
Before varnishing, it’s essential to clean your painting surface properly. This will give you a professional-looking finish. Here are six steps:
- Dust your painting using a soft brush or feather duster.
- Wipe the surface with a clean, dry cloth.
- Moisten a cloth with water and wipe the area. Don’t apply too much water.
- Check your work under bright light for missed spots.
- Use a mild soap solution with a dampened cloth if you find any defects.
- Let the painting dry completely before continuing with varnishing.
First, test an area of your painting using water or mild detergent to avoid damage. Always keep cleaning supplies nearby so you can fix mistakes quickly. Use minimal amounts of cleaner solution applied gently in small circles. Wipe off excess.
Cleaning the painting surface is vital for successful varnishing. Sand in shoes is terrible, but sand on the painting surface will help you achieve better results.
Sand the Surface for Better Adhesion
Sanding is a must before you apply varnish to get optimal adhesion. It makes the surface rougher so that varnish sticks better and removes any previous coatings or bumps. Here are three simple steps to sand the surface for better adhesion:
- Choose sandpaper with grit sizes 120-150 for small surfaces and 220-320 for larger areas.
- Use an unprimed canvas, wood, or panel.
- Gently sand in horizontal and vertical directions. Use minimal pressure not to damage the underlying layers.
Don’t over-sand or repeat this process too many times. This technique helps varnish stick evenly throughout. Don’t wait until it’s too late – and before varnishing to ensure your painting lasts longer! Make your artwork shine brighter than your ex’s forehead with acrylic varnish!
Apply the Varnish on an Acrylic Painting
To apply varnish on an acrylic painting, you must know which type to use as a sealing coat. Choosing the correct type of varnish is essential to ensure the painting is protected and looks suitable for years. In this section, we’ll discuss the two techniques to apply varnish – applying varnish with a brush and applying varnish with a spray can – as the solution to seal an acrylic painting for longevity and appeal.
Apply the Varnish with a Brush
Protect an acrylic painting and give it a glossy finish with varnish! Enhance colors and make the artwork last longer. Here’s a 3-step guide for applying varnish with a brush:
- Choose a well-ventilated area.
- Stroke the meeting with the varnish in one direction.
- Allow each layer to dry before applying the next (up to 3 layers).
Wait at least 24 hours between each coat of varnish to ensure smudging or tackiness won’t occur. For best results: use a clean brush, free from residue, and test out varnish on small areas first.
Did you know varnishing dates back to Ancient Greece? A honey and resin mixture was used in 600 BCE as a protective coating. Spray your way to shine, but watch out for unintended Banksy-style graffiti!
Apply the Varnish with a Spray Can
For protecting an acrylic painting, varnishing with a spray can is popular and effective. Here’s a 6-step guide for the best results:
- Work in a well-ventilated area and protect objects from overspray.
- Shake the can and test it in a small space.
- Hold the can 12 inches away and apply thin, even coats sweepingly.
- Wait 15-20 minutes between coats, as per instructions.
- Allow the final coat to dry completely before handling or displaying.
- Dispose of cans as per local regulations.
Varnishes may turn yellow over time or alter the painting’s look, so a varnish designed explicitly for acrylic paints is recommended. Manufacturers’ instructions should be followed for optimal results.
Varnishing has been used since ancient times to preserve and enhance paintings. Early varnishes were made from natural resins and solvents. Nowadays, various types of varnishes exist, such as acrylic polymer, polyurethane, and synthetic resin. Achieve that glossy finish with these varnishing tips and tricks!
How to Varnish an Acrylic Painting in One Step
There’s a lot of controversy surrounding this topic, or at least, many different opinions on how to do it right.
Some say you need an isolation coat. Others say you should spray apply the varnish. And then there are some who pour it on or use a sponge!
I’m not here to dismiss any of those methods. If they work for that particular artist, more power to them.
Rather, I’d like to share with you the method I’ve been using for over 20 years as a portrait painter. It’s easy, and you can do it one step.
Let me break down this one-step acrylic varnishing method into how to actually do it…
- Lay your canvas flat on a table, oriented horizontally, but at an angle.
- Raise your canvas up, on four scraps of wood placed under each corner (make sure it’s level. 1″ x 2″s work well )
- Get your 4″ varnishing brush (Liquitex Freestyle works well)
- Pour matte varnish (Novacolor or Liquitex) into a clean yogurt container or any plastic container large enough to accommodate the width of the brush. Be sure to stir the varnish if it’s been sitting for a while! Over time the polymer resin can separate from the water in the mixture. If you don’t mix it, you may have streaks.
- “Sweep” any dust or debris off of the canvas surface with a large brush before you begin.
- Dip your brush into the varnish container, so the bristles are coated with varnish 1/3-1/2 of the way up from the tip.
- Begin brushing the varnish on the surface, starting with the end farthest from you. Brush in the longest direction of the canvas.
- Let your brush hit 1/3″ of the way from the left edge of the canvas. Apply even pressure and bring the brush all the way to the left edge.
- Bring the brush all the way to the right edge.
- Wipe any excess varnish that remains on your brush inside the top lip of your container.
- Flip the brush over and smooth out the entire first application, overlapping the edge slightly with 1-2 strokes. Do not overbrush!
- Dip your brush into the varnish container and repeat the process. Let your stroke slightly overlap the first (about 1/4″)
- You will be working your way toward your body. This will keep you from accidentally dripping onto the finished varnished surface.
- If you have any extra varnish that drips onto the side of the canvas, use a 3/4 flat brush to wipe it off. If the canvas will be framed, the side-drips are usually not a problem and can be left alone.
- Let your canvas dry flat on a table. It might look milky white in areas. Resist the temptation to brush it! If you followed my method, the varnish should dry crystal clear. It should dry completely within 3-5 hours, depending on humidity.
Disclaimer: I have used this method with great results in over 20 years of portrait painting. Your results are up to you, how you apply this method, and the humidity levels of your studio space. I cannot be held responsible for any painting that gets damaged during the varnishing process. It would be a good idea to varnish a test piece first. You can add another layer (after 3-5 hours of dry time) if you feel the first one didn’t cover as well as you’d like, but most of the time, you won’t need to.
Watch this video below to see the process in action…
Let me know if you have any questions and I look forward to teaching you more!
Questions? Suggestions? Thoughts? Let me know, below in the comments. Please share this post with your friends!
