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Expert advice on varnishing an acrylic painting


Varnishing

Choose between permanent or removable varnishes, liquid or spray formats, and your desired level of sheen. You can intermix Liquitex varnishes to create a custom sheen and apply them all to both flexible and rigid supports. Spray-on or airbrush varnishing is recommended for heavily textured work or vertical applications such as murals. All our varnishes can be used on interior and exterior work.

PERMANENT

  • Our 100% acrylic polymer archival permanent varnishes are non-removable and are for exclusive use on acrylics
  • Each has excellent leveling properties, is durable, resists chemicals, water and discoloration (yellowing, non-fogging), flexible, permanent and translucent when wet, transparent when dry
  • The water-based acrylic formulas dry to a non-tacky, hard surface that is resistant to dirt retention, copes with humidity, heat and ultraviolet light and depending upon substrate, allow moisture to pass through
  • For interior and exterior use
  • You have four sheen options – High Gloss, Gloss, Satin and Matte

REMOVABLE

  • Our solvent-based archival removable varnishes protect your acrylic or oil painting surface and can be removed periodically to lift away trapped surface dirt without damaging the paint underneath. Follow our guide ‘Soluvar Varnish Removal’ for this
  • Once the surface is clean, a new coat of Soluvar may be reapplied
  • Each has excellent leveling properties, is durable, non-yellowing, flexible and translucent when wet, transparent when dry. They will not crack as your surface expands and contracts during temperature and humidity changes
  • For interior and exterior use
  • You have two sheen options – Gloss and Matte

LIQUID OR SPRAY?

LIQUID

Designed to be used straight from the bottle, this is the most traditional form of varnish. Apply with a paint brush, airbrush or sponge and build up in layers.

SPRAY

Powered by aerosol, this is a newer way to apply varnish. It lets you create even mists and build up fine layers without the chance of stray brush hairs. It takes a little time to perfect the art of a good spray and we always advise wearing a mask.


DIRECTIONS

Permanent varnish

  • Before varnishing, ensure paint surface is fully dry (72 hours-two weeks depending on thickness) and your space is well ventilated and dust-free.
  • Choose your desired format and sheen. Always do a test before applying to your work
  • Place the work to be varnished flat on a table – do not varnish vertically
  • Stir varnish gently before use (to avoid bubbles) or shake spray can well. Do not thin with water
  • Use a clean wide, flat soft-hair brush/pad/airbrush/spray to apply. Apply in long even strokes/mists to cover the surface top to bottom while moving from one side to the other
  • When using Liquitex Matte or Satin Varnish, apply no more than 1-2 thin coats as thick applications may result in cloudiness when dry. If more than 2 coats are desired, first varnish with Gloss Varnish to the desired thickness and apply Matte or Satin Varnish as the final coat
  • Allow at least three hours dry time between coats
  • Thin coats are better than one thick coat which will take longer to dry, may dry cloudy, drip or sag during application and has a greater chance of showing brush strokes when dry
  • Avoid vigorous over-brushing as it may result in a cloudy finish. While working, inspect the varnish layer at all angles for bubbles. Even them out immediately
  • Once you leave an area, don’t go back over it. If you do, you risk dragging partially dry resin into wet, which will dry cloudy over dark colors. If any areas were missed, allow to dry completely and re-varnish

Removable varnish

  • If working with acrylics, allow paint to completely dry (72 hours-2 weeks depending on thickness) before moving to the varnish stage. If working with oils, leave to dry for 6-12 months, depending upon oil film thickness
  • Choose your desired format and sheen. Always do a test before applying to your work
  • Place the work to be varnished flat on a table – do not varnish vertically
  • First apply 1-2 layers of Gloss Medium as a permanent isolation barrier
  • Avoid vigorous over-brushing as it may result in a cloudy finish
  • Leave 1-3 hours between coats and three days after last coat
  • Stir Soluvar gently before use (to avoid bubbles), or shake can vigorously. Liquid Soluvar can be thinned with up to 25% mineral spirits – use ‘true’ mineral spirits, not odorless. Be aware that thinned varnish is more susceptible to producing bubbles so be gentle with your application
  • Apply 1-2 layers of Soluvar with a wide, flat soft-hair brush/pad/spray, leaving 24 hours between coats
  • Apply in long even strokes/mists to cover the surface top to bottom while moving from one side to the other. While working, inspect the varnish layer at all angles for bubbles. Even them out immediately
  • Once you leave an area, don’t go back over it. If you do, you risk dragging partially dry resin into wet, which will dry cloudy over dark colors. If any areas were missed, allow to dry completely and re-varnish
  • When you want to remove your Soluvar layer, use a lint-free rag dampened with mineral spirits to gently clean the surface of dirt and varnish. Leave to dry thoroughly and reapply


How to varnish your paintings

We’ll help you give your paintings the finishing touch it needs and give them a protective layer in a few easy steps.

Before you begin applying your varnish.

1. Make sure it’s dry first. Ensure the painting is fully dried and cured before applying a varnish. This may take a number of weeks depending on the thickness of the paint application.

2. Test before you apply. Though many varnishes are designed to be removable for cleaning and conservation, this is not a task to be taken lightly and may require professional skills. It is important to always test and practice before applying to the final painting.

3. Ventilation. Varnish in a well-ventilated area.

4. Using an Isolation Coat. Though it is not necessary to apply a permanent, non-removable layer referred to as an isolation coat before using a varnish, it is recommended. This consists of a coat of clear gloss acrylic medium or dedicated Isolation Medium evenly applied over the entire surface before a final varnish.

An Isolation Coat creates a barrier between the acrylic painting surface and the final varnish. It becomes more necessary in the future, as acrylic paint can be affected by the solvent used when removing a varnish for cleaning or conservation.

A dry finished acrylic paint will offer a tough waterproof surface but there may still be absorbent areas that allow the varnish to soak in, creating an uneven finish.

The Isolation coat will create an even nonporous, stable, glass like surface and even sheen before the final varnish. This helps prevent the varnish from sinking into any porous areas of the painting creating a dull uneven finish. It can help to prevent a cloudy or frosted effect when using a matte varnish over the absorbent surface.

An isolation coat must be done with a gloss medium. When it is dry you can then the final varnish of either Matte, Satin or Gloss Varnish will always supersede the glossy isolation coat finish.

5. Photograph your painting. Because varnishing may cause the surface of your painting to be more reflective, you may want to photograph your work before you varnish.

Wide flat brush coating blue canvas with varnish

Ready to apply your chosen varnish.

6. Applying a varnish. Use a big brush to reduce the number of brushstrokes for a more even finish. A large flat decorators brush can be useful. Thin layers are important. Allowing each layer to dry before applying the next one.

7. Spray varnishing. When using a spray varnish start by spraying off to the side before bringing the spray over the painting in a smooth even action and continue off the other side of the painting. By starting to spray as any larger droplets which can occur at the start of the spraying process are not on the painting.

8. Outdoor display UV protection and complete waterproofing. Varnish not only the front of the work but the back and sides as well to offer complete protection.

It is best to take the suppliers advice as to whether the varnish says suitable for outdoor use. Varnishes will specify whether for outdoor or interior works or both.

Colin Wynn
the authorColin Wynn

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